N.O.S "STEALTH" Installation Guide

DISCLAIMER: If by installing your n= itrous system per the directions in this document any harm should come to you, your car, the nitrous system, small animals, or anything else: I shall not be he= ld responsible. I am just a fellow car enthusiast trying to help other enthusi= asts like you out. The jet recommendations are not my own, I received them from a friend whom attained them per the NOS tech-line (1-714-821-0592). If any da= mage were to be incurred by these jets I am not to be held responsible. Ok, enou= gh of that already...

<= /a>Materials List

Function Materials:

1. NOS kit #5115
2. Misc. electrical components
3. Misc. wire
4. Teflon paste
5. Misc. bolts
6. Black electrical tape
7. Black zip ties
8. Misc. wire loom covers (1/2", 3/8", 1/4")

Safety Materials:

9. Aeroquip PN FCM2= 721 (-4 AN x 1/8" NPT)
10. Aeroquip PN FCM2914 (-4AN FE connector)
11. 8 NGK TR-5 "v-power" plugs

Stealth Materials:

12. Corvette fuel rail covers (RH&LH, 4 stu= ds, P/B hose with no ASR)
13. IAT sensor
14. NOS PN 15210 (12" 4AN line))
15. Russel PN 6034 (-4AN union)
16. NOS PN 15060 (2 ft 3AN line)
17. NOS PN 16780 (1/8" NPT x 3 AN)
18. Russel PN 6041 (-3 AN x 1/8" NPT)
19. 6' of 3/16" ID fuel line
20. 3' Aluminum stock
21. 5/8" piece of plywood
22. Cardboard box
23. 10" x 10" piece of roofing rubber<= /o:p>

Power Materials:

24. NOS PN 13750-57 (N2O jet)
25. NOS PN 13750-49 (fuel jet)
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INTRODUCTION

"Easy to install", "bolt on 200 hp in 2 hours", "bolt on your new system and en= joy it out of the box". I am sure you have read/heard these claims before. They tease you and inflate your ego... kind of like that bombshell blonde.. err ;-). Well for some r= eason it never works that way. Maybe it is just me and I am stricken with some inexplicable malady. If you believe that stop reading NOW, and go slap your= self a few times for having such evil thoughts about the author. Heh okay on with a li'l preachin'.

The so originally named "Materials List" above is divided into four sections.. doh= .. Well the reason I did it that way is I regretfully realize all of you might= not want to do the install exactly as I did and since I am such a kind hearted fellow, I would like this guide to still be as helpful as possible (awwww). Word of advice: before actually _doing_ anyth= ing read the entire instruction manual supplied with the kit and this document.= The measurements of the wire lengths are just estimates, I suggest you measure before cutting. Fasten all wire looms containing N2O li= nes, vacuum lines, _wires_ (gasp), or anything else, down with black zip-ties so they don't flop around and interfere with moving parts. When taping the end= s of wire looms use high quality tape and do not wrap too tightly or when the ta= pe gets hot it will let go and unravel.

MOUNTING THE BOTTLE

The kit specifically de= signed for the f-bodies (5176) suggests mounting the bottle in the trunk floor. For those of you who care about drilling holes in your beast, hiding the system= , or using your t-tops without removing the bottle, this task is no longer facil= e (I refuse to use the "e" word). I used the spare tire compartment. F= irst disconnect the speaker wire, remove the cover, and finally remove the spare tire and jack (I know, I know... carry a bottle of fix-a-flat). Next, procu= re the cardboard box, hacksaw, rubber bottle valve washer, bottle valve adapte= r, N2O bottle, bottle brackets, 5/8" plywood, aluminu= m stock, a drill with 5/16" and 1/4" bits and 4 5/16" bolts an= d 4 1/4" bolts. Before you worry about installing the bottle install the washer and adapter on the bottle. Having accomplished that place the bracke= ts on the bottle, get a friend (pay someone) and have him/her lower the assemb= ly into the well. Cut a strip of cardboard off of the box and crease it in the proper locations so it will make an "_|&quo= t; and slide below the bottle bracket and so that there is enough material to poke= a hole and bolt through the cardboard and through the unoccupied hole in the power antenna bracket. Do the same procedure for the rear power antenna bra= cket hole and rear bottle bracket. Now measure the distance between the cardboard pieces. Place the brackets on the piece of ply= wood locating the holes in the distance measured before, mark the holes. Mark opposing side holes through the brackets and then drill all marked holes wi= th the 5/16" bit. Now get the aforementioned "friend" and have him/her lower the wood/bracket assembly into the well. Cut 4 strips of cardboard and bend them to fit as before on the passenger side with ( _| ) shapes and the driver side with ( ''''''''|__ ) shapes. Transfer the cardboard pieces to aluminum by stretching them out (s= till maintaining the creases) for length. After marking the bends place the piec= e of cut aluminum in the vice and bend along the marks (leave about 2 mm of space between the mark and vice edge to compensate for the material in the bend.) When you have the four bracket made position them where they will go and ma= rk through the holes in the wood/brackets (I used a small screwdriver) then ma= rk through the antenna holes. Install the brackets with 5/16" hardware. M= ark the undrilled holes in the left (driver) side brackets on the top edge of the spare well, keep the holes near the edge or= you will run into interference with the gas tank and both you and I know we don= 't want that!! ;-) Tighten it up and give yourself a slap on the back. Careful though, it has been proven that too much of this activity not only causes m= ore frequent visits to the chiropractor but is looked down upon by the opposite sex. And both you and I know this car thing can't compete with that… = well not evenly. I took bracket assembly out at this point and gave it a few coa= ts of matte black spray paint. It looks very professional for those extreme perfectionists like myself. Mount the bottle, st= and back and revel in its beauty. Check your hair in its shiny blue side... Ok enough... don't you want to know how I ran the line?

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RUNNING THE MAIN FEED LINE

What do you do w= hen the dealer equipped with lift or the agile inspector looks below the car and sees a nice shiny braided line running the length of the car. Hopefully, if you run the line like I did you won't have to worry about the answer to that question. Fortunately this task is not as daunting as the bo= ttle install. Obtain the large roll of 4AN (the bigger one genius) braided line, electrical tape, screwdriver, etc. Attach one end to the bottle (do not tig= hten at this point as it is a waste of time). Remove the trunk enclosure flap by popping it out of it's socket on each side. Get = it out of your way. Fold the backseat down. Tape the end of the line with electric= al tape so you don't get carpet fuzz, glue, or miscellaneous junk in the syste= m. Lift the carpet a bit and begin to run the line under the carpet. Don't thi= nk you can daintily feed the line in the correct location with the tips of your fingers via the end of the line. You have to get down and dirty with it. Kn= eel on the folded down back seat and grab a hold of the head of the snake. Make sure you start outside the plastic piece that holds the carpet down back he= re. Run your hand/line down trying as much as possible to remain in the corner. When you get near the major bend, stop and pray, this is difficult. Take yo= ur weight off the seat and lift the bottom of the seat with your left arm and press down on the line with your right hand. Once you think you are close enough remove the plastic interior piece that runs along the door jamb. It = is held in by 4 or five Phillips screws. Move the seat to give you room. The s= crew that is exactly in the wrong place where no matter how many directions you = move the seat it is always in the way. I used the bit from a magnetic screw driv= er and turned it by hand. Thankfully it wasn't that tight. If it was the plier= s (I know HACK) were ready. I had already tried a 1/4" socket and wrench on= the bit and there wasn't room. A 1/4" box wrench would have worked nicely = (I couldn't find it). Anyway, it was relatively loose so it worked. Remove the panel and pull the carpet from under the rubber/plastic piece. Pull the car= pet from under the plastic piece rear of the one you just removed. Close your e= yes, reach around for the end of the line, AHH there it is. Pull it through and = you are almost home free. Feed a lot of the slack in the line behind the carpet= to your new opening. Now for a small pain...clearing the seatbelt holster, push and pull and dork with the carpet long enough to get it through. There is a bunch of wires under there to get in the way. Feed the line again and get o= ut of the car and off your knees/side/face and stretch. Do a few jumping jacks… touch your toes… . Now with a refreshed body get back down on your knees/side/face and remove the plastic piece under the glove-box by the two push clips, and the piece along the do= or post by simply pulling it loose. Run the line under the carpet to where the carpet ends on the firewall… press it through the black goo glue junk. Get out of the car and open the hood. = Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the computer and pull it out of it's hole being careful to get the wiring loom and vacuum line out of the way. S= ee the little grommet that the wires from the computer go through? Pull that little sucker out of there. Now go back into the car and feed a bit of the braided line through the hole into the engine compartment. Get out and get = back in a few times to pull the slack into the engine compartment. Get a knife a= nd slit the grommet near the side in a small + fashion. Don't make it too big, test fit and cut a little more, again, again, again, there ;) . Now replace the grommet over the line in the hole, make sure the l= ine is still under the carpet and replace the carpet and all plastic pieces tha= t your removed. If you are going to do the wiring next h= old off on the piece below the glove compartment. Get out and lay on the ground. Look underneath the car and laugh hysterically, wipe that big smile off your face though before your mother begins to worry what you do during the night= s...

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SOLENOID A= ND REGULATOR MOUNTING

Though a smooth-talker might be able to pass a bit of wiring or maybe even the blue/= brass fuel regulator tee as factory, not even James Bond could pass those stainle= ss steel solenoids with N.O.S proudly emblazoned across them on anyone who is somewhat auto-aware. So the solution is obvious. Install them under the bat= tery tray (weren't you thinking the same? ;-) ). Befo= re you install them on the vehicle there are a few steps outlined in the manual for hooking the solenoids, bracket, solenoid tee, 1/8"- 3AN fitting (in replacement of the -3 AN spray nozzle line), N20 filter, and N2O regulator (commonly referred to as the blue thingamajig) up. Obtain these parts, the Teflon paste, 3/8 bolt (washered), 3/8" sp= iked washer, 3/8" nut (washered), the aluminum = stock, -4AN union, and the 3ft -4AN line extension, and a 10" x 10" piec= e of roofing rubber and follow the manual instructions. When you have the first solenoid threaded into the tee and try and get the second one tight as well= and lined up and it just won't work try this. Turn the other solenoid 180 degre= es from the first and thread it on there, rotate till tight and if it doesn't = come out try 90, then 270, and then places in between. I FINALLY got it so it is possible without over-tightening the -AN fitting= s... Turn the NOS regulator barbed fitting which you installed previously and ro= tate the regulator until it is parallel to the solenoids pointing up. Obtain a p= iece of the aluminum stock and bend it in 90 degrees. Attach one end per drilling and bolt/nut to the bracket. Drill the other end for a 3/8" bolt. Now = lay down and remove the million 10 mm and 8mm bolts th= at secure the black plastic panel on the passenger side. Also remove three of = the right-most radiator scoop bolts. Pull the assembly down and dislodge the sp= ring clip.. now pull 'er out. See all of that empty room... it's like the f= actory intended it ;). Before you jump in there and install that baby I would skip down to the wiring section and refer to the schematic. Wire the two of the = four wires (power) together with a spade type male connector, run the wire from = the first solenoid (with the feed line filter on it) along with about 3 ft of w= ire to an eye hole connector (around 1/8") Drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the aluminum bracket you made. Attach the ground wire/extension eyehole with a small nut and bolt with a spiked washer. Splice another 3 ft extension on to the second solenoid remaining wire. Temporarily gather all = of the wires going towards the engine compartment and loops a bit of electrical tape around them. Run all wires out of the compartment and into the main en= gine compartment through the same area the feed line is. Now that it is wired, t= here is a slotted bolt hole just to the side (near the fender) of the battery put your 3/8" bolt (washered would be best) th= rough and hold your bracket up with one hand, thread the nut on the bolt with your other (put the spiked nut between the aluminum and the bracket surface)... = try and hold the bolt down with your third hand (actually a socket and wrench w= ill work... run the main N2O feed line (covered with 3/8" loom) through th= e gap between the battery bracket and the fender. Run the wires from the solenoids along the feed line as well. To connect to the solenoids you will probably = need the line extension, I needed about 6-8 inches. I already had a 3 ft piece m= ade up for the prior installation so I used this in addition with the -4AN union and coiled the extra line around that black coolant reservoir tank container below the battery. Tighten the assembly in place, rotating if necessary for clearance. Install a 1/4" bolt through a hole you poked in the 10 x 10 square of roofing rubber, poke the bolt through = the hole next to the slotted hole you mounted your solenoid bracket in. Thread a nut on the other side from the top. Look to your left. See the unoccupied 1/8" hole at the top of one of those plastic horns? Poke a 1/8" b= olt through here. Poke a hole in the rubber with your knife and push the rubber onto the bolt. Thread a nut on and hand tighten both nuts with a socket. No= w it is also water-safe. Get out from under the car and look down towards the solenoids. If you can still see them a bit I assure you once you put all of= the loom covers and the panel below on to cut the light you won't see them.

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SPRAY NOZZLE INSTALLATION

This part require= s the most creativity to hide efficiently. First obtain the -3AN to 1/8" fitting, 2ft 3AN extension, braided 3AN line, spray nozzle, thread tap, IAT sensor, .057 jet, and Teflon paste. Put the end of the IAT sensor in the vi= ce. Cut the mushroom looking female part off, leaving just the barrel, Get a 1/4" drill bit and drill out the inside of the sensor. Now run the tap through the hole and thread it. Thread the nozzle through the center of the sensor barrel. Relocate the factory IAT sensor per THESE directions. Ins= tall the .057 jet and line, apply paste to the 1/8&qu= ot; NPT fitting and hook up the extension. Run the extension line down through = the same area you ran the wires and main feed line. Attach the extension to the fitting in the solenoid. Cover the entire line to the "IAT sensor" with 3/8" wire loom, tape the ends. Run the line along side of the 6 ft vacuum line and make it look like it is coming from the stock IAT location.= Alternate install: After looking at the covered line stiffly just out rather than loose like a wire I decided to do things a little differently. I also didn't like how it sprayed on the throttle blades in this location. So I drilled a hole in the rubber area that is present in the 1LE bellow but is punched/cut out for the air silencer in normal bellows= . I threaded the nozzle in there and that was that. Now it = spray directly towards the TB blades and is even more out of sight. I plugged the= IAT hole with a plug I found at a hardware store for faucets. Now to complete the wiring and finish things up.

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WIRING INSTRUCTIONS

This is the part that requires more patience and care than skill. Few words of advice: unhook the= two harness plugs on the fender and the black plastic vacuum line that crosses = over here and always gets in the way when removing the computer. Mount the relay under the left-most (passenger side) 10 mm bolt that retains the computer. = Cut all excess of the wires and use splice connectors between them. I ran a sho= rt 1/4" loom over the orange wire between the red plastic positive outlet cover and the 1/2" loom. Replace the factory harness plugs and vacuum = line over your harnesses. Hook the wiring up according to the schematic with the= se additions.

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WOT MICROSWIT= CH INSTALLATION

I mounted the = micro switch on the lower linkage bracket bolt and then ground it using a spiked washer and a eye hole connector to the same bolt= . At WOT I used the little knob on the throttle bracket to engage the switch. It takes a lot of bending and experimenting with the supplied WOT switch brack= et to get it right. I ran the other wire in a 1/4" loom under the injector wires and behind the motor. I had already had like the 4 ft section from the prior install so I ran it all the way behind the motor and to just about wh= ere the computer bracketry is. I covered the wire w= ith the Corvette fuel rail covers. I have heard claims that the switch will not hold up and to switch to a magnetic reed switch. I might just do this and <= span class=3DGramE>If I do I will add to this document later.

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FUEL REGUL= ATOR TEE INSTALLATION

To hide thi= s little baby you get to buy the Corvette injector covers, I say "get" bec= ause they look very nice and make for a clean engine compartment... chicks dig i= t... ;-) ; for installation instructions go HERE. Attach enough of the 3/16" fuel line to go from the fpr behind the shrader valve and to one side of the= tee, allowing the tee to lie as flat as possible in the area between manifold an= d valvecover. Install the .049 jet. After running the 6= -ft fuel line section under the injector wires and by the alternator bracket, attach it to the other side of the tee. Run the 6ft line along the back/bot= tom of the radiator hose and then behind the battery and finally down through t= hat gap with everything else running through and clamp it on the blue thingamaj= ig (N2O regulator) barb. Finally hook the vacuum line that was on the regulato= r to the remaining perpendicular side of the tee. If you turn the lines/clamps j= ust right you can get it to lie really nice. Cover the 6'ft line with 3/8" wire loom cover. You don't need to cover the whole line just where it is visible. Pop that injector cover on there and cackle at the kewlness of your install thus far.

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FUEL P= SI SAFETY SWITCH INSTALLATION

After l= ooking at this piece and what it would require I changed my mind about fooling wit= h it more than once...( kind of like that mysterious = girl you meet at a party, with alcohol, I *hear*, you change your mind a bit les= s ;) ) Well I finally decided too, especially since most of the juiced f-body li= st decides not to install it. Well, finally the thoughts of a blown motor via = fuel pump failure overpowered me. First obtain the 90 deg. -4 AN FE -4AN fitting, the -4AN FE connector, 4AN to 1/8" gauge adapter, safety switch, wire,= 2 eyehole connectors, Teflon paste, and a valve stem tool. Climb up on top of= the engine and surround the shrader valve with rags= (next to the fpr with a black plastic cap) remove the= black cap, insert the valve tool and depress the needle valve to relieve the pressure. Now unscrew the needle valve. Put it in a safe place as your fuel injection is as worthless as an icecube in antartica without it if you ever decide to take off t= he N.O.S. Attach the 90-degree male end to the female (the way it was meant to= be ;) ) connector and the gauge adapter. Apply Tefl= on paste and thread the pressure valve into the 1/8= " female (try and keep the screw connectors facing down). Hook 2 3 ft or so w= ires to eyehole connectors and connect each to the sensor with spiked washers. C= limb back up on the engine and begin to thread the assembly onto the shrader valve. When it begins to get tight and you ca= n't rotate the assembly on the swivel, position the assembly about 45 degrees pointing towards the alternator and battery. Then tighten the swivel and the assembly will go with it... hopefully it will end up somewhat straight ;). = put a piece of 1/4" loom on the two wires going straight down and then join the other 1/4" loom with the WOT switch wire in it. Hopefully leaving everything behind the motor. Use some black electrical tape = on the join of the looms and at the ends.

INTERIOR ACTIVATION SWITCH INSTALLATION

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If you are a smoker you are not going to like this solution ;-). Well you probably already don't like a few things about this anti-smoker world, so l= ive with it! ;-) Obtain the switch, wire, no cut/splice connectors, knife, and pliers. Get inside the car and remove the shift knob and boot. Remove the b= lack plastic ashtray insert. Use one of the no cut splice connectors on the oran= ge wire that goes to the cigarette lighter with enough wire to reach the switc= h ( the lighter is HOT 12V all the time, I know it isn't 12 volt switched but if YOU find a good one without messing with the radio let me know). Get the gr= ound by using another no cut splice on the black wire from the light in the asht= ray. Get the control wire by running a 6' wire under the shift boot area and pla= stic piece that covers the carpet, through black metal brac= ketry for the radio or AC I can't remember (this is done so you can't see it insi= de the car, if you look around you will see what I am talking about). Since the panel is still off from below the glove compartment run the wire under here= and poke (hehe he said poke) a hole (where it won't= rub on the braided feed line) in the same PCM grommet and feed it into the engi= ne compartment. Run the line in the same 3/8" loom as the feed line and t= hen use a short 1/4 " loom cover to go between the 3/8" loom feed line area and the 1/2" loom wire area. Tape the exit of the wire the entran= ce to the 1/2" loom. Put a male spade connector on it per the schematic. = Get a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit (you will have to measure) and drill a h= ole in the center of the plastic ashtray insert support, be very careful... if = the drill binds hard it will rip the tiny plastic supports. Remove the plastic = lock ring and attach all connectors on the switch and lines if you haven't alrea= dy. Screw the switch into the hole from the bottom and turn it until the toggle= has a straight path towards you, tighten the lock ring down. Replace the shift = knob and boot, and plastic glove compartment cover. Word of advice on installing those little bastard push snap plugs, you might = want to turn them around on the side that wasn't installed for a good lock. Now = flip the switch a few times and revel in the blue light…. ahhh.

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CONCLUSION

At this point you and I both have invested our precious dollars and HOURS upon HOURS of our time installing t= his nitrous system... for what? A mere second or so out of = eleven or twelve? LESS THAN HALF A MINUTE? Now w= e need to spend more bills for stickier tires and rims to hook. Does this make sen= se? What is wrong with us? If you figure it out let me know, as I NEED help! In= all seriousness I hope this guide was of as much aid to you as possible. If you have any questions or would like to relate your experiences shoot me an EMAIL
.

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<= /o:p>